3 Creams with Montanov 202

Find out how to create 3 different emulsion textures with one natural emulsifier: Montanov 202

EMULSION 1: ALOE VERA LOTION

PHASE INGREDIENT PERCENT
(%)
WEIGHT
(g)
Phase A Caprylic Triglyceride 10.00 5.00
Jojoba Oil 10.00 5.00
Montanov 202 4.00 2.00
Behenyl Alcohol 1.00 0.50
Xanthan 0.30
Phase B Water 61.70 30.85
Phase C Glycerin 5.00 2.50
Hydrosol 5.00 2.50
Aloe Vera 0.50 0.25
Biogard 221 0.50 0.25
Potassium Sorbate 0.80 0.40
Phase D Sodium Lactate 0.95 0.48
Vitamin E 0.25 0.13

Method

1- Measure Phase A and place on the heat.

2- Measure Phase B and also place it on the heat. Take a measure of the full weight of this beaker so any evaporated water can be added back later.

3- Wait until both phases have reached at least 80 °C / 176.0 °F before pouring the oil phase into the water phase. Before doing so you might need to add back any water that evaporated during heating of Phase B.

4- Blend at high shear for 1-2 minutes then wait for the emulsion to cool down a bit while stirring in between.

5- In the meantime you can measure Phase C in a separate beaker.

6- When the emulsion has reached 40 °C / 104.0 °F add in Phase C and stir until well incorporated.

7- Check the pH to make sure it is between 4-5.5.


EMULSION 2: HYDRATING SERUM

PHASE INGREDIENT PERCENT
(%)
WEIGHT
(g)
Phase A Caprylic Triglyceride 5.00 2.50
Montanov 202 3.00 1.50
Xanthan 0.30 0.15
Phase B Water 77.20 38.60
Phase C Biogard 221 0.70 0.35
Potassium Sorbate 0.50 0.25
Leucidal SF Max 4.00 2.00
Hydrosol 5.00 2.50
Panthenol 1.00 0.50
Glycerin 3.00 1.50
Phase D Lactic Acid 0.25 0.13
Vitamin E 0.25 0.13

Method

1- Measure Phase A and place on the heat.

2- Measure Phase B and also place it on the heat. Take a measure of the full weight of this beaker so any evaporated water can be added back later.

3- Wait until both phases have reached at least 80 °C / 176.0 °F before pouring the oil phase into the water phase. Before doing so you might need to add back any water that evaporated during heating of Phase B.

4- Blend at high shear for 1-2 minutes then wait for the emulsion to cool down a bit while stirring in between.

5- In the meantime you can measure Phase C in a separate beaker.

6- When the emulsion has reached 40 °C / 104.0 °F add in Phase C and stir until well incorporated.

7- Check the pH to make sure it is between 4-5.5.

EMULSION 3: NOURISHING OAT CREAM

PHASE INGREDIENT PERCENT
(%)
WEIGHT
(g)
Phase A Jojoba Oil 5.00 2.50
Caprylic Triglyceride 10.00 5.00
Montanov 202 4.00 2.00
Behenyl Alcohol 1.50 0.75
Cetyl Alcohol 2.00 1.00
Xanthan 0.50 0.25
Phase B Water 63.50 31.75
Phase C Hydrosol 4.00 2.00
Oatmeal 1.00 0.50
Glycerin 3.00 1.50
Phase D Leucidal SF Max 4.00 2.00
Biogard 221 0.50 0.25
Potassium Sorbate 0.50 0.25
Phase E Lactic Acid 0.25 0.13
Vitamin E 0.25 0.13

Method

1- Measure Phase A and place on the heat.

2- Measure Phase B and also place it on the heat. Take a measure of the full weight of this beaker so any evaporated water can be added back later.

3- Wait until both phases have reached at least 80 °C / 176.0 °F before pouring the oil phase into the water phase. Before doing so you might need to add back any water that evaporated during heating of Phase B.

4- Blend at high shear for 1-2 minutes then measure Phase C in a separate beaker and add it in the main Phase.

5- Let the main phase cool down and measure Phase D in a separate beaker in the meantime.

6- When the emulsion has reached 40 °C / 104.0 °F add in Phase D and stir until well incorporated.

7- Add in Phase E ingredients and do a final check of the pH to make sure it is between 4-5.5.

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